The stretch of the Somerset Coast around Brean offers natural beauty, long sandy beaches and British seaside charm.
I’m initially attracted to this part of the world by the second Somerset and Exmoor Coastal Festival which includes an 80 miles in Eight Days walking challenge. The idea is to showcase Somerset’s unique yet overlooked coastline, somewhere new to me. Unfortunately I can’t make the dates so instead I decide to hire an e-bike and explore the area on two wheels.
From London, it’s a short two hour train journey to Weston-Super-Mare and I’ve arranged to have my e-bike delivered to the station. Brean is only a 45 minute ride away but my plans are scuppered by a torrential downpour. Instead I cadge a lift with the owner of the bike company and he deposits bike and me to my bed and breakfast. After lunch the rain stops and the sun comes out so I set out to explore.
Brean Down
Brean Down is a dramatic limestone promontory jutting one and half miles into the Bristol Channel. I ride along the coast road and, at the end of the beach, am confronted by rugged cliffs rising up to under 100m. It doesn’t sound much but the steep track is pretty challenging although the e-bike takes the strain. At the top, I’m rewarded by views across the bay to Weston-Super-Mare and south across the Somerset Levels.
The area forms part of a National Trust-managed nature reserve, home to rare plants and animals, including peregrine falcons, kestrels, and several species of butterflies. After the rain, all is green, although the autumn leaves are turning and I follow the track to the far end of the peninsula. Looming in the distance are the ruins of the Victorian Brean Fort.
This was built in the 1860’s as part of Britain’s coastal defences to protect the ports of the Bristol Channel. Over the years, it played a role in both World Wars, serving as a lookout and gun battery but now all that remains is an empty shell. Still, it’s an atmospheric place and there are panoramic views of the Somerset coastline, the Welsh mountains, and the twin islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm.
Burnham-on-Sea
Next day I’m aiming for Burnham-on-Sea and the newly opened stretch of the King Charles III Coastal Path follows the beach all the way. At seven miles, this is one of the longest stretches of sand in the UK with also the second highest tidal range in the world. That means the sea goes out a long way, but rushes in across the sand at high tide.
Still, I’ve a couple of hours and I start on Berrow Beach, home to the haunting remains of the SS Nornen, a Norwegian barque that ran aground in 1897. It’s a wonderful feeling cycling across the firm sand, dodging dogs and their owners. Running along the edge of the beach, Berrow Dunes is a local nature reserve supporting numerous different species of flowering plants
The buildings of Burnham appear in the distance and I pass the lighthouse, a striking red and white structure standing on wooden stilts on the sand. The sea is getting closer and I ride under the pier, one of the shortest in Britain, looking for a way to get off the beach. Water is already lapping along the bottom of the nearest slipway and I get my feet wet as I steer the bike onto dry land.
From here the trail follows the prom and then turns inland along the banks of the River Brue. Just before Highbridge, it continues south to Bridgewater but I’ve got a lunch appointment at Rich’s Cider Farm. Gordon Rich started pressing apples here in 1954 and the third generation of his family continues the business. They’ve expanded and now source 80% of their apples from other orchards in the area. Cider production is a staggering half million litres per year amd they’re now exporting to Thailand.
After a filling carvery lunch washed down with glass of their vintage cider, I make my way back to Brean cross country. It leads me past Brent Knoll, one of the few hills in this flat area before bringing me back to the coast. Now the tide is out so I have miles and miles of sandy beach to myself.
Fact file
INFO: Visit Somerset has information about the county.
The Somerset and Exmoor Coast Festival takes place in September.
Discover Brean has information about the area.
GO: GWR has direct services to Weston-Super-Mare.
There is a regular bus service to Brean from the station.
Brean Hire Centre has E-bikes and regular bikes.
STAY: Yew Tree House is a comfortable B&B near the sea with excellent full English breakfasts.
EAT: The View at Brean Country Club has good food.
Rich’s Cider Farm serves its own cider with copious roast dinners.
Revo Kitchen, by the Grand Pier in Weston-Super-Mare serves hearty English food with great views of the sea.
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